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Useful IRL stuff to know

Posted: Tue Sep 19, 2017 9:43 am
by That Kode Guy
<blockquote class='quote_blockquote'><dl><dt>joey_picus</dt><dd>&nbsp;</dd></dl><div>

<sup>now hopefully more accurate and less variable</sup>

You've probably guessed what this is from the title - yep, it's a table of motors. This is a list of various motors, common and otherwise, used in fanfiction robots and their weight, along with an exact or otherwise indication of the power they will produce at a given voltage.

This is a reference for FanFic only, not gospel by any means, use at your own risk. :P

RED indicates that the motor is being run above its rated voltage, this will produce more power and torque but it will also produce more heat and potentially be less reliable. Any motor that is underlined and red should only be used if steps are taken to protect it, such as current limiting or using v-belts for drive that will slip if the driven object stalls.

BLUE indicates the motor is being run at below its rated voltage, and will last for longer, albeit at the expense of power and torque

PURPLE indicates values that are entirely theoretical. J McConnell cannot be held responsible for any detonation that may or may not occur if you use these motors at that voltage.

Motors presented in normal text are rated to produce 'continuous' power - that is, over a long period of time that is the average power they put out. Their performance may turn out to be better than this in battle, precisely by how much is something that varies depending on both the motor and the application.

These motors are also much more likely to be overvolted safely.

Motors that are underlined are rated for their peak power - that is, at maximum amp draw at a set voltage, this is how much power they will theoretically produce. They will likely produce less than this in battle, and IF RUN AT THEIR RATED POWER FOR ANY LENGTH OF TIME, WILL LIKELY BURN OUT, SHORT OUT, EXPLODE OR DO SIMILAR BAD THINGS.

These motors are also going to be touchy when overvolted - see above.

Motors in bold are series wound motors. These produce a lot more torque per amp than a permanent magnet motor of a similar size, but also draw many times more current - one robot using two car starter motors for drive drained a 40ah 12v battery flat in five minutes of fighting. Use with care.

These motors can handle being overvolted but will draw even more current when that happens; account for the weight of cabling and suitable controllers in your design.

<table><tr><td>Motor Name</td><td>Weight</td><td>12v</td><td>24v</td><td>36v</td><td>48v</td><td>72v</td><td>Used In</td></tr><tr><td>
Bosch 750w</td><td>3.8kgs</td><td>-</td><td>750w</td><td>2.25hp</td><td>-</td><td>-</td><td>Most heavyweights (24v), Tornado (36v)</td></tr><tr><td>
Litton 800w</td><td>3.4kgs</td><td>-</td><td>800w</td><td>2.4hp</td><td>-</td><td>-</td><td>St. Agro (24v), Wheely Big Cheese (36v)</td></tr><tr><td>
Iskra 800w**</td><td>2.6kgs</td><td>-</td><td>800w</td><td>-</td><td>-</td><td>-</td><td>101, Vader (24v)</td></tr><tr><td>
Iskra 1.2kw**</td><td>4.0kgs</td><td>-</td><td>1200w</td><td>-</td><td>-</td><td>-</td><td>Draven (24v)</td></tr><tr><td>
Lynch LEM130</td><td>3.0kgs</td><td>-</td><td>1.75hp</td><td>4hp</td><td>5.3hp</td><td>-</td><td>Storm II, DisConstructor - both drive and weapon (36v)</td></tr><tr><td>
Lynch LEM170</td><td>8.5kgs</td><td>-</td><td>5.75hp</td><td>13hp</td><td>-</td><td>-</td><td>-</td></tr><tr><td>
Lynch LEM200</td><td>11kgs</td><td>-</td><td>6.75hp</td><td>9.25hp</td><td>11.4hp</td><td>-</td><td>-</td></tr><tr><td>
Ampflow A28-150*</td><td>1.72kgs</td><td>-</td><td>3hp</td><td>DON'T</td><td>-</td><td>-</td><td>Hornet, Dizzy Tilly - both disc motors (24v)</td></tr><tr><td>
Ampflow A28-400*</td><td>3.1kgs</td><td>-</td><td>4.5hp</td><td>10hp</td><td>-</td><td>-</td><td>Biohazard, Big Nipper (24v)</td></tr><tr><td>
Ampflow A40-300*</td><td>5.4kg</td><td>-</td><td>3.8hp</td><td>8.5 hp</td><td>-</td><td>-</td><td>Envy / Trax / Thor (current live circuit version) (24v)</td></tr><tr><td>
PERM PMG 080 / TechnoBots PowerDrive</td><td>3.4kgs</td><td>-</td><td>4hp</td><td>9hp</td><td>-</td><td>-</td><td>M2XT (24v), Scorpion (36v)</td></tr><tr><td>
PERM PMG 132</td><td>11.25kg</td><td>-</td><td>-</td><td>-</td><td>15hp</td><td>34hp</td><td>-</td></tr><tr><td>
Briggs & Stratton Etek</td><td>9.5kgs</td><td>-</td><td>-</td><td>-</td><td>15hp</td><td>-</td><td>Tanto (24v)</td></tr><tr><td>
Ford Fiesta car starter motor</td><td>3.0kgs</td><td>800w</td><td>4.25hp</td><td>-</td><td>-</td><td>-</td><td>Sump Thing (12v), Killertron - axe motor (12v)</td></tr><tr><td>
Yamaha 550cc motorbike starter motor</td><td>2.0kgs</td><td>1000w</td><td>5.3hp</td><td>-</td><td>-</td><td>-</td><td>Spin Doctor, Agent Orange (12v)</td></tr><tr><td>
Emrax 188</td><td>6.8kg</td><td>-</td><td>-</td><td>-</td><td>-</td><td>25.75hp</td><td>-</td></tr></table>

<sup>*NOTE: Sometime in 2010, the Magmotors (S28-150, S28-400, and C40-300) did something very sneaky and changed their names to those shown in the table - as far as I am aware nothing else has changed though and the figures still stand. -- J McConnell, December 2010

**Iskra motors are only rated for 4 minutes maximum power at their nominal voltage so they cannot be overvolted. --J McConnell, January 2011</sup>

SOURCES - Lynch Motor Company (LEM130, 170, 200) - The Big Cheese Robot Company (Litton 800w) - Robot Marketplace (most other motors)

Other figures are either from old roboteer websites or from archives of the old Robot Wars Tip Swap forum.


750w = 1 horsepower

Overvolting from 12 to 24v - i.e. doubling the voltage - will double the current drawn and therefore quadruple the power.

Overvolting from 24v to 36v is voltage x 1.5, therefore current is also x 1.5 and the power is x 2.25.

You can draw your own conclusions as to what to do for other voltages.

With thanks to:

- Leo van Miert for giving me advice and correcting me with regards to Magmotors and precisely what happens when a motor is overvolted to 36v

- Shane Swan for also giving advice and for informing me of the voltage Thor and Envy ran at

- Andrew Jackson for putting all the info I gathered into a table in the first place, contributing all the tds and trs that make it readable

- Kody Kunz for correcting my maths fail with the LEMs

- Everyone who commented and offered suggestions, particularly Paul who made me realise that people actually trust this thing. :P

- version 2.5, 15 January 2011, Joey McConnell[/quote]

Useful IRL stuff to know

Posted: Tue Sep 19, 2017 9:44 am
by That Kode Guy
ARMOUR LIST (unfinished)
by Kody Kunz/That Kode Guy


The MatWeb armour calculator



Density&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;1.2 g/cm<sup>3</sup>
Tensile strength&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;55

Useful IRL stuff to know

Posted: Tue Sep 19, 2017 9:52 am
by That Kode Guy

by Alex Holt

"This guide is just here to let people new to this section of the forum get their bearings, after a few incidents which could perhaps have been handled better. It covers the basics of vapourboteering, how it works, how to do it and a few guidelines on etiquette. Coincidentally I'd written this last week, and then there was a request for something similar, so here it is.

Part 1: What is a vapourbot?

The basic idea of vapourbots is that of Robot Wars or Battlebots

Useful IRL stuff to know

Posted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 2:20 pm
by Mole55
Another useful page full of things that may help you:

Useful IRL stuff to know

Posted: Thu Nov 23, 2017 2:03 pm
by Mole55

Do you like CAD models of motors?

Cause I have some:

(login required for most)

LEM-200 (big brushed motor: really only useful for HW spinners (also technically a CAD of the Agni 95R, a clone):

Scorpion HKIII 4025 (a good FW weapon motor): ... dc-motor-1

Turnigy Rotomax 100cc (8kw. At a weird juncture where it could be used for many different applications): ... or-167kv-1

Turnigy Helidrive 4956 (3.7kw of brushless):

Turnigy Trackstar 1/8th (sensored for use as drive. Not as powerful as other options tho): ... r-2350kv-1

Ampflow A28-150 (you know what this is):

Ampflow A28-400 (see the short mag): ... 1&id=67408